Frequently asked questions

It depends on the county and the zoning. Some places only allow an accessory building once a main dwelling exists or is permitted alongside it, while others allow a storage building on vacant agricultural land. Ask the county zoning office how it classifies the building before you buy a package for a bare lot.

Yes, but the living space counts as a dwelling, so it goes through full residential permitting under Florida's building code even on farmland, and it may need its own septic capacity, egress windows and fire separation from the bay. Zoning may also cap the number of homes allowed on one parcel. Draw the living space in from day one.

Taller than the highest point of the coach, counting the roof air conditioner, antennas and any satellite dome, with clearance to spare. The eave then has to be taller still, enough for the door plus its roll-up drum or tracks. Measure your own rig; brochure heights often leave out roof gear.

Long enough for the RV, or the boat on its trailer, including the hitch, outboard motors and any bike rack, plus room to walk around both ends with the door closed. If you might trade up to a longer rig, build for it now; lengthening a steel building later is a bigger job.

Yes, if they are planned before the slab. Shore power needs a properly sized circuit and receptacle, and a dump connection ties into a septic system or sewer line under its own permit. Licensed electricians and plumbers do that work, and local rules decide what is allowed.

Wide enough for the mirrors plus some slack for pulling in at a slight angle. A boat with a wide beam on its trailer may need more. Wider openings mean longer headers in the frame, which the engineer sizes for the wind load.

Some. RVs and boats bring in moisture and fuel odors, and a closed steel building in hot weather traps both. Ridge vents, wall louvers or an exhaust fan, together with roof insulation, help keep mildew and condensation off the vehicle.